Regal Jumping Spider Care

Phidippus Regius

Supplies

Enclosure - see
Fine mist spray bottle
Clean unused soft brush (guide brush)
Tweezers for feeder insects
Distilled water (for misting enclosure)
Feeder Insects - see
Hydrometer/ thermometer
Light source full spectrum
Heat source if needed
Enclosure accessories
Soft microfiber cloth

How they live

Jumping spiders are a solitary arboreal species which means they are most comfortable and will generally build their nest at the highest point of their enclosure and for your spider NEEDS to have front or bottom open enclosure.

Only 1 spider per enclosure, they will not cohabitate.

Their is no such thing as a breeding or bonded pair.

In the wild majority of spiders will be in trees and around flowers to catch pollinators. Regals are found in a specific area of the United states, it important that we replicate their environment as much as possible for the best success in raising regals

Husbandary Conditions

Temperature- 70f- 85f

Humidity- 50%-85%

Day/Night lights on for at least 12 hours a day. Should be on a timer for consistent schedule.

Proper husbandry is essential for the long-term health and well-being of a Regal jumping spider. They thrive in clean, well-ventilated enclosures that provide both vertical and horizontal space for exploration while still allowing them to feel secure. Good airflow helps prevent stagnant moisture and mold growth, while a stable environment reduces stress. Enclosures should be kept in a quiet area away from direct sunlight, drafts, or sudden temperature changes.

Temperature should remain in a comfortable room-temperature range, ideally between 70–85°F, with gentle humidity rather than constant moisture. Jumping spiders do not require heavy misting; instead, light misting on one side of the enclosure or providing water droplets is sufficient. Overly wet conditions can be harmful, so the enclosure should be allowed to dry slightly between mistings. Substrate is optional for many setups, but if used, it should remain dry and clean to avoid bacterial growth.

Providing enrichment and appropriate surfaces is a key part of good husbandry. Textured walls, natural décor, and anchor points allow spiders to climb safely and create webbing where they feel comfortable. Decorations should be secure and spider-safe, with no sharp edges or heavy items that could fall. Regular observation, spot cleaning, and gentle handling only when necessary help ensure your spider remains healthy while minimizing stress.

Temperature

Regal jumping thrive in warm, humid climates, making temperature above 68 degrees are generally adequate, you may notice spider spending more time in its nest. Ideally, they prefer temperatures 75-85f. To maintain this warmth, consider a low watt led light above their enclosure or a heat matt with thermometer placed a few inches away from enclosure. A thermometer/Hygrometer inside the enclosure will help keep an eye on their environment.

Humidity

Maintaining the right humidity level is crucial for the care of your Regal Jumpers, a tropical species that thrives in higher humidity than what is typical in many areas of the United States. To keep their enclosure properly humidified, misting wall daily this provides drinkable water to your spider and adds humidity. When we use heat or air conditioning to control temperatures in our home, our homes become incredibly dry, please be more mindful during these times. 50-85% inside of the enclosure is ideal.

Humidity to low?
Switching to coco coir substrate or bioactive can help keep humidity levels more stable. Increase frequency of misting. Cover some ventilation with clear tape, making sure adequate ventilation is still available.

Humidity levels to high? Excessive humidity can be just as detrimental; if that’s the case, increase ventilation holes, reduce misting frequency to every other day. Dry excess condensation with a clean scratch proof clothe. Open enclosure door for awhile to let it dry out while you take your spider out.

Lighting

Jumping spiders are diurnal, visually driven hunters, meaning light plays an important role in their daily activity and overall well-being. In the wild, they inhabit open environments such as fields, scrub, palms, and building surfaces where they are exposed to bright daylight for much of the day. Proper lighting in captivity helps support natural behaviors including exploring, hunting, and maintaining a stable day-night rhythm.

A consistent day/night light cycle is recommended, with approximately 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. This mimics the natural photoperiod they experience year-round in warm regions and helps prevent stress or disorientation. Bright ambient room light or indirect LED lighting is sufficient—jumping spiders do not require specialized UVB lighting. Direct sunlight should be avoided, as it can quickly overheat an enclosure and create dangerous temperature spikes.

Lights should always be turned off at night to allow for a true dark period. Continuous lighting can disrupt natural resting patterns and increase stress. Providing a predictable lighting schedule supports normal activity levels, feeding response, and overall health, especially for aging spiders that rely more heavily on environmental consistency.

Toxins in your home

Spiders are fragile when it comes to environmental toxins, things that human use everyday in their homes could be potentially fatal for your invertebrate friend.

Toxins

*Air fresheners, plug ins, incense, aerosol sprays

*Candles of all types

*Topical flea treatments, oral flea treatments

*Smoke from cigarettes, vapes and cooking

*Heavy metals all metals should be covered or sealed.

*Insecticides, pesticides use in or around home

*Perfumes, lotions, make up and body care products

*Essential oils

*Household cleaners and sanitizers

*Heavy smells and odor stick to their webbing

Male vs Female

Regal jumping spiders exhibit distinct characteristics for gender identification. Females come in a variety of colors, including black, and can have different chelicerae, while males are primarily with spotted markings on their abdomens and white hairs on their legs.

Males tend to be less fuzzy, with a narrower abdomen long, thick first legs, featuring green or blue chelicerae. A unique aspect is the presence of recessive males, which can resemble females in coloration but typically darken to black as they mature. The most reliable indicators of gender are the pedipalps, where females have straight, uncurved structures, while males exhibit unique features that differentiate them from females

Instars

When adopting your Regal spiderling, it's essential to understand its age based on instars, which indicate the number of molts it has undergone. letter "i" represents the instar stage, with the number indicating how many times your spider has "changed its clothes." Your new spiderling will be between i5 and i10, with i10 typically being mature. Knowing the instar stage helps you determine the appropriate enclosure size, feeder size, and gives you an estimate of your spider's age, which is crucial for its care.

Molts

Premolt is when your spiderling is gearing up to shed its exoskeletons. During premolts, your spider will want to bulk up and become shiney, your spider will make a nest,on side of enclosure or in a hide provided. During this time they will stay hidden, won’t eat and its abdomen swells. Eventually barely moving. It is important to keep misting the enclosure daily at this time, mist close to its hiding spot but not directly on it. Your spider will take a few sips of water of its web or may come out for a few sips off its enclosures wall but will go right back in. The bigger the molt the longer it can take in premolt. It can take many weeks for the mature premolt. Its important during this time which could be weeks to not disturb and monitor conditions especially humidity.

Molt: During molt, it could look like thier is 2 spiders joined in their hammock. This 2nd spider is its an exoskeleton coming off, it should start at the head, got to the abdomen and finally the legs. Do not disturb at all unless absolute emergency. This is a very delicate time.

After molting spider will have taken off its old exoskeleton and will be soft. This is a very fragile time for them. Try not to disturb too much. You could see what looks like another spider hidden with your spider or can be pushed out of its hide and laying somewhere in the enclosure. It takes a lot of hard work for them to get their old exoskeletons off so offer mist of water regularly. Within 2 weeks your spider’s new exoskeleton will harden off, and they will come out of hiding. in search for water and food. They will look bigger and have a small abdomen. Feed them till their abdomen reaches the ideal size. Once they reach sexual maturity. They will not molt anymore.

Miss molts when your spider doesn't fully remove its exoskeleton, this can happen for a variety of reasons. Most often it is because of low humidity/ low temperatures in the enclosure. During molting they are extremely fragile so handling a mis molted spider needs to be with the utmost caution and care Increasing the humidity will greatly help with this. Place a damp paper towel on the bottom of enclosure., and place enclosure in a warm steamy bathroom. Run a hot steamy shower in your bathroom and let your spider sit on the counter in a safe area, where it can get a steam bath to help loosen its exoskeleton.Offer honey/sugar water after as it was an extremely long and exhausting molt. Even with trying your best to save a mismolt it might not be successful depending on the extent and reason for the mismolt.

Females and Eggs

It is completely normal for female Regal jumping spiders to lay eggs during their lifetime. Egg laying is a natural biological process and can occur even if a female has never been paired with a male.

If you adopt a female from us, you can be confident that her eggs will not be fertile. Our females are never bred prior to adoption, so while egg sacs may appear, they will not result in spiderlings.

When a female prepares to lay infertile eggs, she will usually create a thick, dense webbing—much heavier than her normal resting hammock. This egg web is most often built along the side or upper corner of the enclosure and serves as a secure place for her to lay and guard the eggs. Infertile eggs can look very different from fertile ones; they are often runny or watery and may even drip or streak down the side of the enclosure rather than forming a firm, compact egg sac.

In most cases, the female will eventually eat her infertile eggs, which is normal and helps her recover nutrients. If she does not consume them, the eggs can be safely removed after she has clearly left the nest and is no longer guarding the area. It’s important not to disturb the egg web while she is still occupying it, as this can cause unnecessary stress. Once she has moved on, gently cleaning the enclosure will help maintain a healthy environment while allowing the female to return to her regular routine.

Wild VS Captive

When considering adopting a spider, it's essential to understand that both and captive-bred options have their pros and cons. Wild spiders can be found in your backyard and are often curious and friendly, but they may also come with challenges, like being pregnant and not adjusting well captivity refusing food or pacing enclosure.. On the other hand, adopting from a reputable breeder ensures you know what you're getting, as breeders focus on specific projects that yield various species and color variants. Regardless of your choice, remember that caring for your spider is a significant responsibility, and providing the right husbandry conditions is crucial for their well.

Elderly Care

As Regal jumping spiders enter their senior stage, it’s normal to see noticeable changes in mobility and behavior. One of the most common signs of aging is a loss of grip strength. Older spiders often struggle to climb smooth surfaces and may have difficulty holding their abdomen up, which makes them more prone to slips and falls. Because falls can easily result in injury at this stage, enclosure setup becomes especially important. A shorter enclosure with plenty of textured surfaces—such as fabric mesh, cork, or rough plastic—helps them move safely and maintain stability. The bottom of the enclosure should be soft and uncluttered, avoiding hard décor that could cause harm if they fall.

Timing is critical when making adjustments for an elderly spider. As they age, regals gradually stop producing strong webbing, which they normally rely on for climbing and safety lines. If they are moved to a new enclosure too late in life, they may not be able to create new webbing to navigate their space, leaving them stranded or stressed. This is why it’s best to transition them earlier rather than waiting until mobility is severely reduced. You may also notice that elderly spiders spend more time near the bottom of the enclosure and leave their nest less frequently, choosing instead to remain hidden and conserve energy.

Changes in appetite are also a normal part of aging. Senior regal jumping spiders often slow down on feeding or refuse food altogether, even when prey is appropriately sized. This reduced appetite usually goes hand in hand with decreased activity levels. They may stop actively hunting, venture out less, and remain tucked away in their nest for long periods. While these changes can be concerning to observe, they are a natural part of the aging process. Providing a calm environment, minimizing stress, and adjusting husbandry to prioritize safety and comfort can help ensure an elderly regal spider lives out its remaining time with dignity and minimal risk.

911 Care

In the case that your spider isn’t doing well, in a death curl. Stuck in molt, hunger strike. There are a few things you can do

Mis molt- Place a damp paper towel on the bottom of enclosure.

Run a hot steamy shower in your bathroom and let your spider sit on the counter in a safe area, where it can get a steam bath to help loosen its exoskeleton. Avoid disturbing.

Offer honey/sugar water after as it was an extremely long and exhausting molt, in starving condition, laying eggs, twitchy movement walking,

1 drop raw pure honey, 10-15 drops distilled water. mix till fully dissolved. offer on qtip.

Hunger strikes - can often happen around molting which is normal and not a cause of concern, or as the spider ages. Keep on eye on temperature and humidity and offer honey water regularly to keep energy up. Offer different feeders. or transport your spider in a smaller enclosure and try feeding in a smaller environment, make sure your spider is actually in hungry size.

DKS - is not a disease itself but a set of neurological symptoms that indicate something is seriously wrong

uncordinated, or jerky movements
twitching or shaking
legs curling under or flaling
difficulty climbing or sticking to surface
spinning, flipping or inability to right themselves
lethary progressing to loss of movement

usually cause by toxic exposure of some kind

most cases fatal

Death curl

Death curls happen when your spider is actively dying or has passed. They curl up their legs underneath them to form a ball. Sometimes no matter our best efforts..