Everything about Feeding
How they eat
Unlike many spider species that rely on webs, jumping spiders are active hunters. They use their excellent eyesight to spot prey, carefully stalk it, anchor a safety silk line, and then pounce with precision. Their movements are calculated and deliberate.
As an arboreal species, they prefer elevated areas where they can observe movement from above. In captivity, they often hunt from high corners, décor pieces, or enclosure walls, returning to their silk hammock between meals.
Jumping spiders are insectivores, meaning their diet consists of live insects only. When feeding, use tongs to place the feeder insect inside the enclosure or into a feeder dish, allowing the spider to hunt naturally. They prefer to stalk and capture their prey on their own rather than be hand-fed directly. Hunting supports healthy feeding behavior, exercise, and mental stimulation.
Prey should always be appropriately sized and safely introduced so your spider can engage in its natural instincts.
Hydration
Proper hydration is essential for a healthy jumping spider. In the wild, these arboreal spiders drink from small droplets of rainwater that collect on leaves and branches rather than from standing water.
In captivity, distilled water is the safest and most consistent option. It closely mimics clean rainwater without the added chemicals and minerals commonly found in city or well water. Tap water may contain chlorine or other treatments that spiders would not naturally encounter.
Lightly mist the enclosure walls or décor to create drinkable droplets. Avoid oversaturating the enclosure, as jumping spiders prefer balanced moisture, not excessive humidity. Consistent hydration supports healthy molting, digestion, and overall vitality.
Preference
Every jumping spider has its own personality, and with that often comes individual food preferences. While many adapt well to a variety of feeder insects, others may show a strong preference for certain types, especially flying prey. This reflects their natural arboreal lifestyle, where flying insects are more commonly encountered than ground-dwelling worms.
Because jumping spiders rely entirely on you for nutrition in captivity, offering a varied diet is important. Rotating feeder options helps prevent picky feeding habits and ensures balanced nutrition. A spider that becomes fixated on only one type of prey may become difficult to feed if that feeder is unavailable or harder to source.
As a keeper, it is your responsibility to observe your spider’s behavior and adjust accordingly while still encouraging variety. Some spiders may readily accept crickets, flies, or roaches, while others may initially hesitate and require patience and consistency.
Understanding that preferences can develop over time is essential before adopting a jumping spider. Being prepared to provide appropriate feeder insects, even those outside your personal comfort zone, is part of responsible and informed care.
Enviromental
Your spider’s environment plays a major role in feeding behavior. If an enclosure is too large, especially for a sling or juvenile, your spider may struggle to effectively locate, stalk, and capture prey. Proper enclosure sizing helps support successful hunting and reduces stress.
Lighting is equally important. Jumping spiders are highly visual hunters and rely on natural day and night cycles to regulate activity. Without adequate daytime light, they may appear uninterested in food simply because their internal rhythm is not being properly stimulated. Good lighting signals that it is time to explore, move, and hunt.
Temperature also directly affects appetite and digestion. As cold-blooded invertebrates, jumping spiders depend on their surrounding environment to regulate body function. When temperatures are too low, metabolism slows, digestion becomes delayed, and feeding responses decrease. When kept within appropriate temperature ranges, they digest efficiently, remain active, and are more likely to eat consistently.
Maintaining proper enclosure size, lighting, and temperature creates the conditions your spider needs to feel secure and biologically ready to hunt.
Age
Feeding habits change as your jumping spider grows. Young spiders, often referred to as slings, have fast metabolisms and typically eat more frequently. Offer appropriately sized prey daily or every other day, adjusting based on abdomen size and feeding response.
As spiders mature, their metabolism slows and feeding intervals naturally lengthen. Increase feeder size gradually while spacing out meals. Adult spiders do not require daily feeding and may eat every several days to once a week depending on size, temperature, and activity level.
Adult behavior often differs significantly from that of eager slings. Both males and females may go through periods of reduced appetite. Mature males frequently decrease feeding when focused on mating, sometimes ignoring prey while actively searching for females. Housing males separately from females may help reduce distraction.
Females may also pause feeding when building egg sacs or guarding eggs. In some cases, they may consume infertile eggs to reclaim nutrients. Temporary fasting in adults is normal and does not automatically indicate a health issue.
Understanding these age-related changes helps prevent unnecessary concern and allows you to adjust feeding schedules confidently as your spider matures.
Size
Choosing the correct feeder size is just as important as choosing the right feeder species. Prey that is too small can frustrate your spider, forcing it to chase multiple tiny insects and expend unnecessary energy for very little nutritional return.
If you consistently need to offer more than one or two feeders to properly round out your spider’s abdomen, it is likely time to increase feeder size or switch to a larger feeder species. A single appropriately sized prey item is typically more efficient and satisfying than several undersized ones.
As a general guideline, feeder insects should measure approximately 0.75 to 1.5 times the spider’s body length, measured from fangs to spinnerets. This size range allows your spider to hunt confidently while still receiving a substantial, energy-efficient meal.
Proper feeder sizing supports healthy growth in slings, steady condition in adults, and reduces stress during feeding.
When to feed
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Spider abdomens visibly grow and shrink after eating; this is a helpful indicator of hunger and feeding status.
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A hungry spider’s abdomen will be about the same thickness as its cephalothorax (head region) and it may stay low to the ground while searching for food.
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Feed an appropriately sized prey item. Normally one feeder insect is enough to make the spider “full”; at most two may be given.
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Overfeeding is dangerous. If the abdomen becomes so large that the hind legs touch it, climbing becomes difficult and the spider is at risk.
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Chronic overfeeding can shorten lifespan and can cause issues such as internal bleeding, excessive egg-laying, and other health problems.
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A noticeably large abdomen is only expected before a molt or when carrying fertile eggs—otherwise it is unnecessary and risky.
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Feed earlier in the day rather than late evening so the spider has daylight hours to hunt and digest.
Molts
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It is normal for jumping spiders to stop eating before and after a molt. As they prepare to shed their exoskeleton, they may retreat into their hammock and refuse food until they feel secure.
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During premolt, their abdomen may appear slightly darker or dull, and activity levels often decrease. Avoid disturbing or handling your spider during this time.
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After molting, the new exoskeleton is soft and vulnerable. Wait 2–5 days (longer for larger spiders) before offering food to allow the fangs and body to fully harden.
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When reintroducing food, start with a slightly smaller feeder, around half to three-quarters of the spider’s body length, to encourage a gentle return to feeding.
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Smaller prey should only be a temporary adjustment. Once your spider resumes normal hunting behavior, return to appropriately sized feeders.
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Patience during molting is essential. Interfering too soon or leaving large prey inside the enclosure can cause unnecessary stress or injury.
Health and Care of Feeders
The health of your feeder insects directly impacts the health of your spider. When you keep an insectivore, you are also responsible for properly caring for the insects that become its food. Clean, well-fed feeders provide better nutrition and reduce the risk of introducing mold, bacteria, or contaminants into your spider’s enclosure.
Feeder insects should be housed in clean containers free of mold, dead insects, old food, and waste buildup. Regular maintenance prevents bacterial growth and keeps your cultures thriving.
Avoid feeding your insects vegetables from the nightshade family, such as tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, and peppers, as well as plants from the carrot family (Apiaceae). Instead, offer safe, high-quality produce from reputable sources, preferably organic. What your feeders eat becomes what your spider eats.
Standing water should never be provided. Most feeder insects obtain hydration from fresh produce, water crystals, or moisture droplets along enclosure surfaces. Open water dishes increase the risk of drowning and bacterial growth.
Some feeder species can be stored in a cooled or refrigerated state to slow metabolism. However, they should be removed once weekly, allowed to warm up, eat, and rehydrate for 24 hours before being returned to storage.
Proper feeder care is not optional. It is a critical part of responsible spider husbandry.
Insect Feeder Type List
the pros and cons of each type of feeder insect plus some tips on maintenance, feeding and care, and an example at which instar should it be fed. Spiders should be given a wide variety of feeders for the overall health.
Fruit flies (i2-i6)
Fruit flies are the most commonly used feeder for newly hatched slings. They are small, manageable, and available in multiple sizes to match early growth stages.
They are widely available in pet stores and from breeders. Cultures can remain productive for several weeks, though longevity depends on the age and overall health of the culture. While low maintenance, fruit fly cultures should still be monitored for mold or grain mite infestations.
To make transferring easier, place the culture in the refrigerator for about 5–10 minutes before feeding. This slows the flies down, making them easier to control when introducing them into the enclosure.
For best results, fruit fly cultures should not be kept longer than about four weeks, as production and nutritional quality decline over time.
Grain flour larvae (i2-i6)
Grain flour larvae are a less commonly used feeder but can be a reliable option for small slings. They are often harder to find locally and are typically sourced online from reputable breeders.
With proper care, cultures can be maintained long term. Clean conditions, regular refreshing of their food source, and good airflow are essential to keeping them productive. They are commonly fed brewer’s yeast, rice flour, or unbleached grain flour.
Unlike fruit flies, grain flour larvae cultures take time to establish and may require six weeks or more to reach full production. Planning ahead is important if you intend to rely on them as a consistent feeder source.
Mealworm Larvae (i4 - mature
Mealworms are widely available in multiple sizes and can be found at most pet stores. They are easy to store and can be kept in the refrigerator for several weeks to slow growth and extend usability.
Maintenance is minimal, but they should be provided with small pieces of fresh vegetable for hydration and kept in clean bedding. At room temperature, mealworms will pupate and eventually turn into beetles, so refrigeration is recommended to control their life cycle.
Mealworms can bite if left unattended in an enclosure. Always monitor feedings, Use a feeder dish and remove uneaten worms promptly. Do not offer pupae or adult beetles, as they are not appropriate feeder stages for jumping spiders.
Cricket (i6-mature)
Crickets are widely available at most pet stores and come in a variety of sizes to accommodate growing juveniles and adult spiders. They are an active feeder that encourages strong hunting behavior.
If kept for more than a few days, crickets require proper housing with ventilation, food, and a safe hydration source such as water crystals. Cleanliness is important, as overcrowded or poorly maintained crickets can decline quickly in health.
Crickets should always be supervised during feeding. They are capable of biting and may injure a spider if left unattended in the enclosure. Remove uneaten crickets promptly.
When sourced from reputable suppliers and managed properly, crickets can be a nutritious and stimulating feeder option.
Dubia Roaches (i4-mature
Dubia roaches are available in a wide range of sizes, making them suitable for larger juveniles and adult jumping spiders. They are commonly sourced from pet stores or reputable breeders.
They can be kept and even cultured long term with proper housing, ventilation, food, and hydration. Clean enclosures and regular maintenance are essential to keeping colonies healthy and odor-free.
Dubias are slower moving than crickets, which can make them easier to manage during feeding. However, as with all feeders, supervision is important. Remove uneaten roaches promptly to prevent stress or disturbance inside the enclosure.
When properly cared for and gut loaded, Dubia roaches provide a nutritious and reliable feeder option.
House flies (i5-i8)
House flies are an excellent flying feeder for juveniles jumping spiders. Their natural movement strongly stimulates hunting behavior and mimics prey your spider would encounter in the wild.
Flies are typically purchased as pupae and allowed to hatch at room temperature. Once emerged, they should be housed in a well-ventilated mesh container. Provide hydration using water crystals or a damp cotton source, and offer a simple gut-loading food such as dry milk powder or commercial fly diet.
To slow development and extend usability, pupae can be stored in the refrigerator until ready to hatch. Once flies emerge, they are relatively short lived, so plan feedings accordingly.
Blue bottle flies/ larvae (i6-mature)
Blue bottle flies are a larger flying feeder ideal for older juveniles and adult jumping spiders. Their strong flight response stimulates natural hunting behavior and provides excellent enrichment.
They are typically purchased as pupae and allowed to hatch at room temperature. Once emerged, flies should be housed in a well-ventilated mesh container. Provide hydration using water crystals or a damp cotton source, and offer a simple gut-loading food such as powdered insect diet or quality fruit-based mix.
Pupae can be stored in the refrigerator to slow development and control hatching timing. Once flies emerge, they are relatively short lived, so plan feedings accordingly.
Buffalo beetle Larvae (i6-i8)
Buffalo beetle larvae are a small, active feeder option suitable for larger juveniles and adult spiders. Their size and movement can stimulate natural hunting behavior.
They should be housed in a dry, well ventilated container with a wheat bran or oat bran substrate. Small pieces of fresh vegetable, such as squash or potato, can be offered for hydration. Remove uneaten produce promptly to prevent mold.
To slow development and extend their usability, store between 50–60°F. At warmer temperatures, they will continue growing and eventually pupate.
When maintained properly, buffalo beetle larvae can be a convenient rotational feeder within a varied diet.
Wax worms (i6-mature)
Wax worms are widely available and easy to keep, making them a convenient occasional feeder for larger juveniles and adult spiders. They should be housed in a cool, dry, well ventilated container with bran or oatmeal-based bedding.
For storage, keep them between 50–60°F to slow development and extend their lifespan. Small pieces of fresh vegetable can be offered for hydration, and containers should be cleaned regularly to remove dead larvae and prevent mold.
Wax worms are high in fat and should be offered sparingly. They are best used as an occasional treat rather than a staple feeder.
Bean Beetles
Bean beetles are a small, easy to maintain feeder commonly used for younger spiders and small juveniles. They are best kept completely dry in a well ventilated container with dry beans as their substrate and food source.
For steady production and consistent hatching, maintain temperatures between 75–85°F. To slow development and reduce hatch rates, store between 60–70°F.
Bean beetles require no additional moisture, as excess humidity can lead to mold. Adult beetles are capable of flight, so open containers carefully when feeding.
Soldier fly larvae (i4-i6)
Soldier fly larvae are a nutritious feeder option for juveniles and adult spiders. They are naturally high in calcium and can be a beneficial addition to a varied diet.
They should be housed in a well ventilated container with dry substrate such as wheat bran or coco coir. Proper airflow is important, as excess moisture can quickly lead to spoilage. Avoid overcrowding and overfeeding the culture at one time.
For storage and to slow development, keep them between 50–60°F. At warmer temperatures they will continue developing and eventually pupate.
While nutrient dense, soldier fly larvae should be offered in rotation with other feeders rather than as a sole staple.
Red Runner Roaches
(i6-Mature)
Red runner roaches are a fast, active feeder that strongly stimulates hunting behavior. They thrive in warm, dry, well ventilated environments and are best suited for larger juveniles and adult spiders.
They can be housed long term with proper ventilation and fed a balanced diet of commercial roach chow, dry dog food, and fresh produce for hydration. Cleanliness is important to prevent odor and die off.
To slow growth, maintain temperatures around 70°F. For breeding and colony production, keep between 85–95°F. Adults grow larger than many other roach species and move quickly, so supervise feedings and remove uneaten individuals promptly.
Feeding Accessories
A few accesories to help make feeding easier and less stressful
