Choosing the Right Home
Choosing and decorating Spider Enclosures
How they live
Jumping spiders are a solitary, arboreal species, meaning they live alone and are most comfortable and typically build their nests at the highest point of their enclosure; therefore, your spider's enclosure needs to be front or bottom opening to not disturb their hammocks or webbing.
Important: Only one spider per enclosure. They will not cohabitate, and there is no such thing as a 'breeding' or 'bonded' pair.
In the wild, the majority of these spiders live in trees and around flowers to catch pollinators. Since Phidippus Regius (Regals) are native to specific subtropical areas of the United States, it is important to replicate their natural environment as closely as possible to ensure they thrive.
Enclosure types
DO NOT keep your spider in a top opening only enclosure or you’ll risk ruining your spider’s nest every time you open its home and that can be very stressful. An upside-down plastic container with locking lid on the bottom will work great or you can choose a premade enclosure available from creators.
Adequate cross ventilation is so important. Your spider still needs oxygen to survive, too small or too few ventilation holes will not give your spider the proper oxygen. At the top where your spider hangs out and also at the bottom so settling humidity doesn't become stagnate..
Size Matters
Size does matter, the lower instar spiderling require small enclosures. Upgrading and putting your spider in too big of enclosure too fast can cause failure to thrive, trouble molting, and have trouble finding its food.
General Idea of size per sling this is dependent on the size of the spider, some are petite and others are huge and need more space.
i2 -i4 communal shared 9 oz deli
i4 - 2 oz 2x2x2
i5 - i6 3 oz or 3x3x3
i7 - i8 9 oz or 4x4x4
i9 to mature 32 oz deli, 1 liter, or 4x4x6 - 4x4x8
Buying enclosures
Major retailers such as Amazon, Walmart, and Petco do not offer appropriate enclosure for Regal Jumping spiders they are too small of a species. The biggest issue with retailers enclosures are too big of holes, enclosure doesn't open from the bottom or the front and they do not offer the sizes needed for slings, They are better suited for bigger species of invertebrates.
There is plenty of great options available from independent sellers on social media and small business websites like Esty that are more catered to the specific needs of the hobby.
DIY enclosures
You can make your own enclosure and alot of people do. An upside down clear food storage container, variety size deli cups upside down, the options are endless as long as all needs and requirements are met.
Do not recommend a glass enclosure as your going to have a harder time with getting ventilation.
Spider enclosures need to be cross ventilated. Providing adequate air flow on 2 opposite sides of enclosure. Rule of thumb on the amount of ventilation needed is. If you put the enclosure up to your mouth sealed to your face, can you breathe through it? This should give you a good idea if it's enough.
To add ventilation to an acrylic enclosure you can use a drill and small size drill bit, smaller in diameter of your spiders head, or can use hole saw and a 3D vent.
Spiders need some kind of enrichment in their habitats, different textures things to climb and most importantly they need a place to hide.
adding decor, climbing objects allows for anchor points for hammocks.
PRE CAUTIONS
When buying a manufactured blank enclosure, or making one yourself, ensure all vent holes, doors and possible escape points are to small for your spider to get through. Spiders can slip though holes as big as wide as their head.
When buying pre decorated enclosures, be sure all materials are safe and sealed. Their should be NO dry moss in a non bioactive enclosures and does not have a permanent substrate. Spiders poop a lot and this can not be washed or sanitized out of dried moss and fake grass. Their should not be any exposed magnets or metal inside of the enclosure.
Just because its for sale as an enclosure, even from a breeder, that does not mean its safe
Its your responsibility as a pet owner to put your living animal in a safe and clean habitat and not put them in a enclosure that will breed harmful bacteria.
SEALING
Sealing-There are a couple of products that you can use to safely seal decorations so that they are safe.
Mod podge dishwasher safe sealant- Needs 28 days to cure before putting in enclosure.
Poly acrylic sealer- 24 hrs. cure time then can be used in enclosure.
Nothing loose should be in your enclosure, everything should be secure and stable enough that it not moving around objects could fall or shift and hurt your spider.
ATTACHING DECOR TO ENCLOSURE
Magnets-can be used if they are strong enough to be sure that they are stable and not able to be knocked around. There is some precaution when using magnets around multiple other enclosures with magnets attachments. When enclosures are placed too close together the magnets can snap together resulting in falling décor. Make sure there is distance between enclosure and metal material. Use it at your own discretion.
Hot glue- may be used on your enclosure. Make sure the hot glue is cooled and cured before introducing your spider, there has been known failure rates with using hot glue. Use it at your own discretion.
E6000- needs a cure time of up to 72 hours for maximum strength and how thick it is applied. There have been known failure rates with using E6000. Use it at
your own discretion.
Silicone- can be used to adhere objects. It is pretty messy and needs a lot to adhere properly. Its best for used spread over background and before drying sprinkling soil, jungle earth and moss over to create a natural looking background. This silicone is also used in fish aquariums and is cured after 24 hours.
Substrate
When choosing a substrate for your jumping spider think about its needs and what kind of maintenance your willing to do..
Silicon mat - Holds no humidity will need to mist often, easy to clean, bacterial resistant. Comes in variety of colors.
Paper towel - cheap and easy economical option.. It doesn't hold humidity well. may need to spray more often. Change when visibly dirty.
Coco coir - 1 -1.5 inches naturally repels harmful molds and bacteria, Holds and keeps humidity more stable. Change every couple months with fresh new coco coir,
Bioactive - one time setup, minimum maintenance. Self cleans due to microfauna processing waste. Holds humidity very well and is more natural for invertebrates
When using loose substrate use a feeder dish for worm like feeders
What Doesn't Belong in Non Bioactive Enclosures
Their is so much that doesn't belong in a non bioactive enclosure, we will go over the most common thing we see.
Dried moss - is dead material, In the high humid environment, dried moss will decay and hold and breed harmful bacteria. with no clean up crew, this is a big no.
Wood - unsealed wood should not be used. with no clean up crew to detour harmful bacterial and fungal growth. Seal multiples times all surfaces if you are going to use wood in non bio actives. Only use untreated wood in bioactive.
Metal - no metal should be exposed in enclosure. no small chains, no exposed magnets, no wire. all of these metals can have heavy metals mixed in which is deadly for spiders. All metal should be covered from spider being able to touch it.
Cotton, polyester, hemp twine- there is no way to safely and effectively seal cotton or hemp twine. cotton and hemp are dead material that will grow harmful bacterial and fungal growth without a clean up crew.. Polyester twine has to many layers of micro plastic string when can hold bacteria and Fingal growth.
Fake Grass- will create bad bacterial and fungal growth and isnt washable, Should not be used in bio or non bio.
Paper- will create bad and bacterial and fungal growth, does not belong in bio or non bioactive.
Toxic rocks and crystals- Rocks are made from a vareity of minerals and elements of the earth. Not all minerals found are safe for invertarates. Unless you know exactly what you have and is safe in water or are going to seal multiple layers, Rocks and crystals should be avoided.
Fabric - will create bad bacteria and fungal growth. Even sealed this can be hard to get into all the micro crevices and holes.
Soft fake plants - This is a little grey area, soft plants like silk flowers and leaves, are primarily made of polyester and plastic. The ones found in most craft stores are porous and are coated in mold inhibitors. which is not good for sensitive invertebrates like spiders Use aquarium safe, reptile safe fake plants, hard plastic plants. Wash and seal fake plants several times before use. Remove from enclosure if any discoloration occurs. Any wiring for fake plant support will rust.
Taking care of any Acrylic Enclosure
No matter where you get your enclosure, taking care of it is important.
Acrylic enclosures require gentle care to maintain clarity, strength and long term use.
Proper cleaning and handling will help prevent scratches, clouding and structural damage.
Clean acrylic using lukewarm water and a soft microfiber cloth only..
if needed a small amount of mild, unscented dish soap may be used and Rinse thoroughly and dry with microfiber to prevent streaking.
No not use glass cleaners, disinfectants or paper towel or sponges.
these can cause permanent clouding, micro scratches or cracking.
To prevent scratches
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remove decor before cleaning.
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Avoid stacking enclosure without padding between them
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Do not slide enclosure across hard surfaces.
Keep ventilation clear of debris with a soft clean brush.
Do not place enclosure to close to heat sources, windows, grow light that produce heat or in direct sunlight.
Use a plastic polish like Novus #1 and #2 in an empty unoccupied enclosure to buff out slight cloudiness and light scratches. Rinse thoroughly.