Regal Jumping Spider Care
Phidippus Regius
Supplies
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Enclosure - see
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Fine mist spray bottle
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Clean unused soft brush (guide brush)
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Tweezers for feeder insects
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Distilled water (for misting enclosure)
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Feeder Insects - see
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Hydrometer/ thermometer
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Light source (full spectrum preferred)
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Heat source if needed
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Enclosure accessories
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Soft microfiber cloth
See our shop for products
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How they live
Jumping spiders are a solitary, arboreal species, meaning they live alone and are most comfortable and typically build their nests at the highest point of their enclosure; therefore, your spider's enclosure needs to be front or bottom opening to not disturb their hammocks or webbing.
Important: Only one spider per enclosure. They will not cohabitate, and there is no such thing as a 'breeding' or 'bonded' pair.
In the wild, the majority of these spiders live in trees and around flowers to catch pollinators. Since Phidippus Regius (Regals) are native to specific subtropical areas of the United States, it is important to replicate their natural environment as closely as possible to ensure they thrive.
Husbandry Conditions
Temperature- 70°F -85°F
Humidity- 50%-85%
Day/Night lights on for at least 12 hours a day. Recommended to be on a timer for consistent schedule.
To keep your spiders comfortable, their temperature should remain between 70-85°F and have a gentle humidity rather than constant moisture, Substrate should be hydrated but not saturated.
Proper husbandry is essential for the long-term health and well-being of a Regal jumping spider. They thrive in clean, well-ventilated enclosures that provide both vertical and horizontal space for exploration while still allowing them to feel secure.
Good airflow helps prevent stagnant moisture and mold growth, while a stable environment reduces stress. Enclosures should be kept in a quiet area away from direct sunlight, drafts, or sudden temperature changes.
Providing enrichment and appropriate surfaces is a key part of good husbandry. Textured walls, natural décor, and anchor points allow spiders to climb safely and create webbing where they feel comfortable. Decorations should be secure and spider-safe, with no sharp edges or heavy items that could fall.
Regular observation, spot cleaning, and gentle handling, help ensure your spider remains healthy while minimizing stress.
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Temperature
Regal Jumping spiders thrive in warm, humid climates. While temperatures above 68°F are generally adequate, you may notice your spider spending more time in its nest if it is too cool. Ideally, they prefer temperatures between 75°F–85°F.
To maintain this warmth, consider a low-wattage LED light above the enclosure or a heat mat with a thermostat placed a few inches away.
Using a thermometer/hygrometer inside the enclosure will help you keep a close eye on their environment.
Humidity
Regals are tropical spiders that need more humidity than the average U.S. home. To keep them healthy and thriving, you must maintain a humid environment in their enclosure. A daily misting of one wall is recommended to provide drinkable water to your spider and help maintain your humidity levels. If you use heat or air conditioning to control temperatures in our home, please be mindful that the air can become incredibly dry. Keeping humidity levels at 50-85% inside your spiders enclosure is ideal.
Humidity too low?
Try switching to coco coir substrate or a bioactive set up and/or increase the frequency of misting. If you’re still struggling, try cutting back slightly on ventilation by covering some air holes with clear tape, just make sure adequate cross ventilation is still available.
Humidity levels too high?
Excessive humidity can be just as detrimental; if that’s the case, increase ventilation holes and reduce misting frequency to every other day. Dry excess condensation with a clean scratch proof clothe, and if still too high, try opening the enclosure door to let it dry for a bit while you take your spider out.
Lighting
Jumping spiders are diurnal, visually driven hunters, meaning light plays an important role in their daily activity and overall well-being. In the wild, they inhabit open environments such as fields, scrub, palms, and building surfaces where they are exposed to bright light for much of the day. Proper lighting in captivity helps support natural behaviors including exploring, hunting, and maintaining a stable day/night rhythm.
A consistent day/night light cycle is recommended, with approximately 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. This mimics the natural photoperiod they experience year-round in warm regions and helps prevent stress and disorientation. Bright ambient room light or indirect LED lighting is sufficient—jumping spiders do not require specialized UVB lighting. Direct sunlight should be avoided, as it can quickly overheat an enclosure and create dangerous temperature spikes.
Lights should always be turned off at night to allow for a true dark period. Continuous lighting can disrupt natural resting patterns and increase stress. Providing a predictable lighting schedule supports normal activity levels, feeding responses, and overall health, especially for aging spiders that rely more heavily on environmental consistency.
Toxins in your home
Spiders are fragile when it comes to environmental toxins. Many household items humans use daily could potentially be fatal for our small invertebrate friends.
Common Toxins
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Air fresheners, plug ins, incense and aerosol sprays
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Candles, oil burners and essential oils of all types
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Topical flea treatments, oral flea treatments
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Smoke from cigarettes, vapes and cooking
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Heavy metals; all metals should be covered or sealed
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Insecticides and pesticides used in and around the home
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Perfumes, lotions, make up and body care products
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Household cleaners, sanitizers, and wipes
Remember: These toxins, heavy scents, smoke and chemical molecules in your home can get trapped in their silk webbing and it is more of a danger than you might think! Your spider can absorb these microscopic particles through their feet and mouthparts by cleaning or grooming themselves, or even drinking water droplets or mist off of their hammocks.
Male vs Female
Regal jumping spiders exhibit distinct characteristics for gender identification. Females come in a wide variety of colors, and can have almost any color chelicerae. Males are primarily black with white spotted markings on their abdomens, white stripes of hairs on their legs, they tend to be less fuzzy, naturally have a narrower abdomen than females, and long, thick front arms, always sporting bright green or blue chelicerae. A unique aspect is the presence of recessive males, which can resemble females in coloration but have green or blue chelicerae and are known to darken to black as they mature. The most reliable indicators of gender are the pedipalps, where females have straight, uncurved structures, the males famously exhibit the “boxing gloves”. The boxing glove shaped pedipalps can be spotted/start developing as the males get closer to maturity.
Instars
When adopting your Regal spiderling, it is essential to understand its age based on its instar. For jumping spiders, their “instar” indicates the number of molts each spider has undergone. The letter "i" represents the instar stage, with the number after the “i” indicating how many times your spider has "changed its clothes." Your new spiderling from Weird Is Beautiful will be between i5 and i10, with i10 typically being mature. Generally, each jumping spider goes through i1-i10, and once mature, will no longer molt. Knowing the instar stage helps you determine the appropriate enclosure size, feeder size, and gives you an estimate of your spider's age, which is crucial for its care.
Molts
Premolt: This is when your spiderling is gearing up to shed its exoskeleton. To prepare, your spider will bulk up and its abdomen will swell and become shiny. They will build a thick nest on the side of the enclosure or inside a hide. During this time, they stay hidden and stop eating—eventually barely moving at all. It is vital to mist the enclosure daily, focusing near the hiding spot but never directly on the spider. They may take sips from the web or walls before retreating. The larger the spider, the longer premolt lasts; for mature spiders, this process can take several weeks. Do not disturb them; just monitor the humidity.
Molt: When your spider is actively molting, it may look a bit scary or like a jumbled mess, or even like there are two spiders shoved into one hammock. This "second spider" is the old exoskeleton being shed. The process starts with the spider shedding its head cap and this creates a hole for your spider to slip the rest of its body out of. After the head cap is off, they will start pulling their abdomen through, then finally they slip their legs out. Do not disturb at all unless it is an absolute emergency. This is a very delicate stage.
After Molt: Once the old skin is off, your spider will be soft and extremely fragile. You might see the old exoskeleton pushed out of the hide or tucked away with the spider. Because molting is exhausting, continue to offer misted water regularly. Your spider’s new exoskeleton will be soft and can take up to two weeks for the new exoskeleton to fully harden. Once they are ready, they will emerge in search of food. They will look larger but have a small abdomen; feed them until they reach an ideal size. Note: Once Jumping Spiders reach sexual maturity, they will no longer molt.
Mismolts: This happens when a spider fails to fully shed its exoskeleton, often due to low humidity or temperatures. If this occurs, handle with the utmost caution. Increasing humidity is key: place a damp paper towel on the bottom of the enclosure and give them a "steam bath" by placing the enclosure in a warm, steamy bathroom (not in the shower itself). Afterward, offer honey or sugar water for energy. Please be aware that despite your best efforts, some mismolts may not be successful.
Females and Eggs
It is completely normal for female Regal jumping spiders to lay eggs during their lifetime. Egg laying is a natural biological process and can occur even if a female has never been paired with a male.
If you adopt a female from us, you can be confident that her eggs will not be fertile. Our females are never bred prior to adoption, so while egg sacs may appear, they will never result in spiderlings.
When a female prepares to lay infertile eggs, she will usually create a thick, dense webbing—much heavier than her normal resting hammock. This egg web is most often built along the side or upper corner of the enclosure and serves as a secure place for her to lay and guard the eggs. Infertile eggs can look very different from fertile ones; they are often runny or watery and may even drip or streak down the side of the enclosure rather than forming a firm, compact egg sac.
In most cases, the female will eventually eat her infertile eggs, which is normal and helps her recover nutrients. If she does not consume them, the eggs can be safely removed after she has clearly left the nest and is no longer guarding the area. It is extremely important the egg web is undisturbed while she is still occupying it, as this can cause unnecessary stress. Once she has moved on, you can remove the egg sac and gently clean her enclosure. This will help maintain a healthy environment and allow your gorgeous girl to return to her regular routine.
Wild VS Captive
When considering adopting a spider, it's essential to understand that both wild-caught spiders and captive-bred spiders have their pros and cons.
Wild Caught: Some species, depending on where you live, can be found in your backyard. While some are curious and friendly, others might be too scared to hold or interact with and they may come with other challenges as well. For example: They could be pregnant, they could have been exposed to pesticides in your yard, possibly carry parasites, might not adjust well in captivity, they could refuse food, pace their enclosures, etc. Something else to think about is you will not know their exact age, they could possibly be elderly and you might not have a lot of time with them.
Captive Bred: Adopting from a reputable breeder ensures you know what you're getting. They can tell you birthdates, instars, last molts, the exact species, what kind of feeders and diets they are used to, their personalities, temperaments and if they like to be held, what color lines they come from, who their parents were, and the list goes on. There are many reasons to buy captive bred, just make sure you go to a trusted breeder with a good reputation.
Please Remember: Regardless of your choice, caring for your spider is a significant responsibility, and providing the right husbandry conditions is crucial for their well-being.
Elderly Care
As Regal jumping spiders enter their senior stage, it’s normal to see noticeable changes in mobility and behavior. One of the most common signs of aging is a loss of grip strength. Older spiders often struggle to climb smooth surfaces and may have difficulty holding their abdomen up, this causes them to be more prone to slips and falls. Falls can easily result in injury at this stage, which means your enclosure setup is especially important. A shorter enclosure with plenty of textured surfaces like fabric mesh or web netting, cork bark, 3d printed shelves or ledges, plastic plants, etc. to help them move safely and maintain stability. The bottom of the enclosure should be soft and uncluttered, avoiding hard, sharp, and pointed décor that could cause harm if they fall.
Timing is crucial when making adjustments for an elderly spider. As they age, your jumping spider will gradually stop producing strong webbing that they rely on heavily for climbing, safety lines and building hammocks. If they are moved to a new enclosure too late in life, they may not be able to create new webbing to navigate their space, leaving them stranded or stressed. This is why it’s best to transition them earlier rather than waiting until mobility has severely declined. You may notice your elderly spider spending more time near the bottom of their enclosure, leaving their nest less frequently and choosing to remain hidden to conserve energy.
Changes in appetite are also a normal part of aging. Senior jumping spiders often slow down on feeding or refuse food altogether, even when prey is appropriately sized. This reduced appetite usually goes hand in hand with decreased activity levels. They may stop actively hunting, venture out less, and remain tucked away in their nest for long periods. While these changes can be concerning to observe, they are a natural part of the aging process. Providing a calm environment, minimizing stress, and adjusting husbandry to prioritize safety and comfort can help ensure an elderly regal spider lives out its remaining time with dignity and minimal risk.
911 Care
If your spider isn’t doing well, maybe they are in a death curl, stuck in molt, on a hunger strike, or acting abnormally, here are a few situations and some solutions to try and help them.
Mis Molts- Place a damp paper towel on the bottom of enclosure. Run a hot steamy shower in your bathroom and let your spider sit on the counter in a safe area, where it can get a steam bath to help loosen its exoskeleton. Try to avoid disturbing unless your intervention is clearly needed.
Hunger Strikes- If your spider is due for a molt, they may stop taking food about a week or so prior. If your spider is not due for a molt, or if you have an older spider, keep an eye on your spider’s abdomen, if they are still nice and round, they are likely refusing food simply because they are not hungry. Always make sure temperature and humidity are at the appropriate levels, offer honey water regularly to keep their energy up, try different or smaller feeders, or move your spider to a smaller enclosure. Sometimes if your spider is in a new environment or you have recently sized up their enclosure, they may take some time to get used to it and not feel confident enough to hunt just yet. If your enclosure is simply too large, they also might not be able to find their food. If your think this is the case, you could try to temporarily move them to a smaller enclosure or feeding them in a deli cup so they can clearly see their food.
Dyskinetic Syndrome- Also known as DKS, is not a disease itself but a set of neurological symptoms that indicate something is seriously wrong. It is usually caused by exposure to toxins of some kind and in most cases, it is fatal for them.
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uncoordinated or jerky movements
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twitching or uncontrollable shaking
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legs curling under or possibly flailing
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difficulty climbing or sticking to walls
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spinning, walking in circles or pacing
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flipping or inability to right themselves
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lethargy leading to loss of movement
Death Curl- In the world of jumping spiders, a death curl occurs when a spider’s legs tuck tightly underneath its body, often resembling a clenched fist. Unlike a relaxed or sleeping spider, this is a critical sign of dehydration, severe illness, or the end of its life cycle because spiders use hydraulic fluid (hemolymph) to extend their legs; when they lose the ability to maintain that pressure, their legs naturally curl inward.
